BEANS, COWPEAS

Beans and Cowpeas
The bean is a tender, warm season vegetable that ranks second to tomato in popularity in home gardens.
Bush Beans stand erect without support. They yield well and require the least amount of work. Green bush beans were formerly called “string beans” because fiber developed along the seams of the pods. Plant breeders have reduced these fibers through selection and green beans are now referred to as “snap beans.”Pole Beans climb supports and are easily harvested.
When To Plant
“Theonly limits to your garden are the boundaries of your imagination.”
~ Thomas Church
Beans are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost. (Seedlings grow slowly and erratically in cool temperatures.) They should be planted after all danger of frost is past in the spring (i.e., late spring to early summer.) If the soil has warmed before the average last-frost date, an early planting may be made a week to 10 days before this date. You can assure yourself a continuous supply of snap beans by planting every 2 to 4 weeks until early fall (August, in the US.)
Sowing Preparation & Care
Refer to the fertilizer and watering basics in the Vegetable Gardening Basics section, before beginning sowing. Seeds of most varieties tend to crack and germinate poorly if the soil’s moisture content is too high. For this reason, never soak bean seed before planting. Instead water just after planting or plant right before a heavy rain.
Beans have shallow roots and frequent shallow cultivation and hoeing are necessary to control small weeds and grasses. Because bean plants have fairly weak root systems, deep, close cultivation injures the plant roots, delays harvest and reduces yields.
Spacing & Depth
Soil temperature should be near 70 degrees. Beans do best when coated with legume inoculant powder. Legume inoculant powder is a bacterial compound which encourages nitrogen fixation on the roots of the bean plant.

Plant seeds of all varieties 1 – 1 ½ inches deep. Plant seeds of bush beans 2 to 4 inches apart in rows at least 2-3 feet (24 – 36”) apart (to ensure more consistent germination, you may want to plant two seeds per hole.) Plant seeds of pole beans 4 to 6 inches apart in rows 30 to 36 inches apart or in groups (four to six seeds per group) 30 inches apart, with 30 inches between rows. Some sort of support structure (trellises, poles, e.t.c.) will be required for pole beans.
An option for pole varieties is to plant 4-6 seeds together, at the base of four 12 foot poles. All four poles are 12-15 inches apart and are then tied at the top to form a teepee.
Harvesting
Harvest when the pods are firm, crisp and fully elongated, but before the seed within the pod has developed significantly (i.e. as soon as they are large enough.)Pods that snap crisply in half are at their peak.
Pick beans after the dew is off the plants, and they are thoroughly dry. Picking beans from wet plants can spread bean bacterial blight, a disease that seriously damages the plants. Be careful not to break the stems or branches, which are brittle on most bean varieties. The bean plant continues to form new flowers and produces more beans if pods are continually removed before the seeds mature – so, keep harvesting (i.e., plucking them for consumption) your bean pods.
Beans have an indeterminate growth pattern, meaning that you can continue to harvest green beans for weeks. The reason that they keep producing is that the beans you are picking aren’t fully mature and the plants keep trying to make mature beans.
If you left the beans on the plant until they matured (ripened and dried out) the plants would stop producing after one crop, and you get what are known as shell-out beans/dried beans (what you get at your local grocery store) – the name comes from the fact that the shell (i.e., the pod) becomes too tough to eat and has to be removed, leaving you with only the bean.
Common Problems
The bean mosaic diseases cause plants to turn a yellowish green and produce few or no pods. The leaves on infected plants are a mottled yellow and are usually irregularly shaped. The only satisfactory control for these diseases is to use mosaic-resistant bean varieties.
Bright yellow or brown spots on the leaves or water-soaked spots on the pods are signs of bacterial bean blight. Bacterial blight is best controlled by planting disease-free seed avoiding contact with wet bean plants and removing all bean debris from the garden.
Questions & Answers
Q. My beans appear healthy, but not many beans have formed. Why not?
A. The blossoms drop and fail to form pods during periods of hot, dry winds.
Q. Is it a good practice to plant pole beans at the base of corn plant for double cropping?
A. No. Neither crop can reach its maximum potential. Weed control becomes difficult and cornstalks offer weak support when the beans are maturing.
Q. Is it necessary to plant beans in a different area of the garden each year?
A. Yes. Beans are subject to diseases that may carry over in the soil to reinfect the following bean crop.
Q. Will bean varieties cross in my garden?
A. Because the flowers are largely self-pollinated, bean varieties usually do not cross. These crosses show up only when seed is saved from cross-pollinated flowers. In any event, you should obtain new seeds each year to avoid seed borne diseases.
Q. Can I use beans from my garden that have matured past the green, edible stage?
A. Yes. Snap beans (pole or bush) may be harvested past maturity age as shell out beans and for dry beans.
Shell out beans are any kind of beans where the pods are allowed to grow to maturity. When the pods begin to turn yellow and become soft and flexible, they are ready to harvest. You don’t get the volume of harvest from shell outs that you get from green beans. You only get one picking from them, and you aren’t keeping the pods when you are done – only the beans.
You can also allow shell out beans to dry completely on the vine, and pick them at that point. They can be shelled and stored like any dried beans that you buy in your local grocery store.
Q. Why do some snap bean varieties have white seeds?
A. Most bean varieties are developed for the canning and freezing industry. When varieties with colored seeds are used, the cooking water is slightly off-color. White seed is preferred because it does not discolor the cooking water.
Q. What are the fuzzy, bright yellow insects on my bean plants?
A. These are larvae of the Mexican bean beetle. The adult resembles a large ladybug. The larvae do the most damage. They are generally not a serious problem, but they occasionally reach damaging numbers, particularly early in the season.
Selection & Storage
Legume is the prosaic name for beans. It covers all the podded plants. Fresh beans (as opposed to dried) vary in color, shape and length of pod. Fresh beans include green beans, Chinese long beans, tiny green beans (Haricot) and Fava beans, to name a few. This section will focus on bush beans and pole beans which are common garden varieties.
Harvest fresh beans before they become tough and stingy. If you can see the bulge of a developing bean through the green pod, the bean is over-mature and should be shelled (except pole beans). At this stage the pod is too tough to eat. Planting garden beans in two week intervals helps to eliminate having all the beans ready for harvest at the same time.
Fresh pole beans and bush beans can be stored, unwashed in plastic bags in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Do not wash them before storing. Wet beans will develop black spots and decay quickly. Wash beans just before preparation.
Preparation & Serving
Tiny immature green beans from any variety are delicious served raw in fresh salads. They are tender and mildly flavored. Mature green beans need to be cooked or blanched before eating. Only the stem end needs to be removed. Wash beans under cold running water and drain. Green beans retain color and nutritional value best if they are cooked whole. Cooking time should always be brief.
Home Preservation
Green beans can be frozen, dried or canned. Immature beans retain more color and undergo less texture and flavor loss during freezing. All vegetables must be blanched before freezing. Unblanched vegetables quickly become tough and suffer huge nutrient and color loss. Vegetables naturally contain an active enzyme that causes deterioration of plant cells, even during freezing. Blanching before freezing retards the enzyme activity.
Freezing does not improve the quality of any vegetable. Freezing actually can magnify undesirable characteristics. For instance, woodiness in stalks become more noticeable upon thawing. Select vegetables grown under favorable conditions and prepare for freezing as soon after picking as possible. Vegetables at peak quality for eating will produce best results in the freezer.
In a blanching pot or large pot with a tight fitting lid, bring 5 quarts of water to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, wash beans, trim stem ends and cut into1-inch pieces or leave whole. Blanch no more than one pound at a time. Add beans to boiling water and immediately cover with a tight fitting lid. Start timing immediately and blanch for four minutes.
Prepare an ice water bath in a large 5-quart container or the sink. Remove beans from water with slotted a spoon or blanching basket. Immerse in the ice water bath for five minutes or until cooled. If you do not have ice, use several changes of cold water or running cold water. Remove and drain.
Pack cold beans in zip-closure freezer bags or freezer containers. Squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing bags. Label and date each container or bag. Immediately place in the freezer, allowing an inch of space around each container until it is frozen. Freeze for up to one year at 0 degrees F. or below.
Blanching water can be used over and over again. Add more water if necessary. Remember to always bring water back to a rolling boil before blanching more vegetables.
RECIPES
Herbs and spices that compliment green beans include dill, mint, basil, sage, thyme, summer savory, garlic, onions and dry mustard.
Texas Caviar (with Black Eyed Peas)

Prep Time: 15 Minutes
Ready In: 1 hour 15 Minutes
Servings: 16
Here’s a spicy Texas favorite. Black-eyed peas and black beans are marinated in a fiery, flavorful mixture. This is great with tortilla chips or bread — and plenty of cold iced tea!
INGREDIENTS
1/2 onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 bunch green onions, chopped
2 jalapeno peppers, chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 (8 ounce) bottle zesty Italian dressing
1 cup dried beans (use any grown out of your High Protein Seed Pack)
1 cup black-eyed peas
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1 bunch chopped fresh cilantro
DIRECTIONS
In a large bowl, mix together onion, green bell pepper, green onions, jalapeno peppers, garlic, cherry tomatoes, zesty Italian dressing, black beans, black-eyed peas and coriander. Chill thoroughly for about an hour.Toss with desired amount of fresh cilantro to serve
Mexican Bean Salad

Prep Time: 15 Minutes
Ready In: 1 Hour 15 Minutes
Servings: 8
Three bean varieties combine with corn, bell pepper, and red onion in this easy and colorful salad. It’s tossed with a sensational dressing made with fresh lime juice, cilantro, and cumin.
INGREDIENTS
1 cup dried beans (use any grown out of your High Protein Seed Pack)
1 cup another variety of dried beans (use any grown out of your High Protein Seed Pack)
1 cup red kidney beans
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 (10 ounce) package frozen corn kernels
1 red onion, chopped
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons white sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1 clove crushed garlic
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 tablespoon ground cumin
1/2 tablespoon ground black pepper
1 dash hot pepper sauce
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
DIRECTIONS
In a large bowl, combine beans, bell peppers, frozen corn, and red onion.In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, red wine vinegar, lime juice, lemon juice, sugar, salt, garlic, cilantro, cumin, and black pepper. Season to taste with hot sauce and chili powder.Pour olive oil dressing over vegetables mix well. Chill thoroughly (for about an hour), and serve cold.
Steamed Green Beans with Lemony Vinaigrette

Prep Time: 15 Minutes
Ready In: 30 Minutes
Servings: 6
INGREDIENTS
Lemony Vinaigrette
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons fat-free yogurt
1 tablespoon chives or green onion with green top, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon each, salt and black pepper
1/2 cup canola oil or safflower oil
In a small bowl combine parsley, lemon juice, yogurt, and chives. Set bowl on a wet towel to avoid slippage. Add oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly until vinaigrette is blended. Chill.
Steamed Green Beans
1 pound fresh green beans (i.e. not the dried bean, but the immature bean)
1/2 cup red pepper, cut into julienne strips
DIRECTIONS
Wash green beans and remove the stem end only, leave whole. Steam or blanch green beans for 3 minutes. Toss with julienne red pepper. Toss green beans and red peppers with enough vinaigrette to coat vegetables, about 1/3 cup. Serve warm. Leftover vinaigrette can be used as a salad dressing. Store in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Green Beans with Tomatoes

Prep Time: 15 Minutes
Ready In: 30 Minutes
Servings: 6
INGREDIENTS
1-1/2 pounds fresh green beans (i.e. not the dried bean, but the immature bean)
1 large ripe tomato, cored and chopped
1/2 cup onion, chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and cut into julienne strips
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
5 pods of okra (optional) or one white potato cubed
Salt and pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS
Wash green beans and trim stem end, set aside. Wash core and chop tomato, no need to remove skin. Heat olive oil in a nonstick pan. Add onions and sauté for one minute Add garlic and tomatoes continue to cook for one minute. Add green beans, toss add okra or potato, season with salt and pepper. Add in a cup of water, cover quickly and simmer for 10 minutes or until potato is tender. Check potato by pricking with a fork. Serve hot.
Saving Bean Seeds (includes the California Black Eyed Cow Pea)
Earmark plants at the beginning of the season for seed saving. Don’t pick any pods from them to eat. Don’t feed them or water them until they are very dry, as this would encourage leaf growth rather than pod development. At the end of the season, strip the pods from the plants and spread them out to dry indoors. They should dry at least two weeks before shelling, or you can leave the seeds in the pods until planting time




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